纪梵希,你见到赫本了吗?丨人物
在电影《蒂凡尼的早餐》(Breakfast at Tiffany's)中,奥黛丽·赫本(Audrey Hepburn ['hepbə:n])身着一袭黑色礼裙,清早流连于纽约第五大道的蒂凡尼珠宝店,悠闲地吃着牛角面包看着橱窗里的首饰……
这是电影史上的经典一幕,也是赫本最标志性的荧幕形象之一,无数后来人争相模仿。
而这条著名的“小黑裙”(little black dress)的设计师就是于贝尔·德·纪梵希(Hubert de Givenchy [dʒɪ'vɑŋʃɪ])。
The “little black dress” was the work of Hubert de Givenchy, the French couturier who, along with Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Cristobal Balenciaga, redefined fashion in the wake of World War II.
这条小黑裙出自于贝尔·德·纪梵希之手。这位法国女装设计师连同克里斯汀·迪奥、伊夫·圣·洛朗和克里斯托巴尔·巴伦西亚加一起,重新定义了二战后的时尚界。
couturier [ku'tʊrɪe]:女装设计师
in the wake of:随着……而来
这位法国时尚大师于3月10日辞世,享年91岁。这一消息由他的伴侣菲利普·维纳(Philippe Venet)发布。
纪梵希的一生和他的时尚设计,可算是法国贵族式浪漫优雅的极致体现。
纪梵希1927年出生于一个法国贵族家庭。
受祖父影响,他从小就痴迷于衣料和服装,将巴黎世家的创始人克里斯托瓦尔·巴伦西亚加(Cristobal Balenciaga)奉为偶像。
看看小迷弟当时是怎样追星的:
Family legend has it that after running away from home aged 10 in a failed attempt to track down his idol and show him his own designs, Givenchy persuaded his family to allow him to abandon their idea for him to become a lawyer and let hi 36 41591 36 14942 0 0 1603 0 0:00:25 0:00:09 0:00:16 2542m enter the prestigious École des Beaux-Arts in Paris in 1945 at the age of 17.
家族有传闻说纪梵希在十岁时曾离家出走,只为追寻偶像,让他看看自己设计的服装,不过最终没能成功。之后,纪梵希便说服家里人放弃为他规划的律师之路。1945年,他在17岁进入久负盛名的巴黎艺术学院学习。
极具天赋的纪梵希在24岁就创建了自己的工作室“House of Givenchy”,推出了自己的第一个时装系列。
He was an immediate success, with one British fashion writer remarking, “these dresses remind you of that first, best glass of champagne.”
他一炮而红,一位英国时尚作者曾评论道:“这些裙子让你想起人生尝到的第一杯最美味的香槟酒。”
纪梵希的手稿
他为时尚界带来的是怎样一种风格?
有人说是一种“极致优雅”(extreme elegance)。
Givenchy believed less was more when it came to fashion design, preferring the simple but perfect stylish cut to the decorated or ostentatious.
纪梵希信奉的时尚理念是少即是多。他钟爱简单且风格鲜明的完美剪裁,而非繁复浮夸的装饰。
纪梵希设计的花呢女装
《费加罗夫人》杂志(Madame Figaro)这样描述他的设计:
His clothes were made with an almost “surgical precision … not too much, not too little”.
他的剪裁手法几乎带着“外科手术般的精度……一分不多,一分不少。”
纪梵希的设计图
虽然内心是个古典主义者(a classicist at heart),但他也为时尚界带来了一些革命性的改变。
During a period when couture looked kindly on the corseted bodice and nipped-in waistline, his designs showed an understanding of the female need for clothes that were comfortable on the body.
在一个仍然欣赏紧身胸衣和缩腰女装的时代,他的设计却深解女性的另一种需求:穿得舒服。
corseted:紧身胸衣的
bodice:女士紧身上衣
nipped-in:(服装)腰部窄紧的
另外,也许你还不知道,纪梵希是第一个引入可搭配穿着的女装概念(the concept of separates)的设计师。
We have him to thank for fashion separates—that is, the now very common idea that a woman’s wardrobe can be modular, comprised of complementary parts that all fit together into different looks instead of complete outfits.
我们要感谢他带来了可自由搭配的单件女服,也就是现在大家习以为常的概念:女人的衣橱里不一定是一套套完整的套装,也可以是组合性质的,各种上衣、裙、裤自由组合,就能变成不同的搭配。
separates:n. 不配套的单件女服
而纪梵希的个人魅力无疑也为他的品牌增加了一份吸引力:
Six feet six inches tall, with a shock of sand-colored hair, chivalrous to a fault, athletic and handsome, Mr. Givenchy was the epitome of a French aristocrat.
纪梵希有着1米98的高大身材,一头棕发浓密炫目,他健美而英俊,举手投足间都是过分殷切的骑士风度,可算是法国贵族的典型。
chivalrous ['ʃɪvəlrəs]:有骑士风度的
to a fault:过分地
epitome [ɪ'pɪtəmi]:典型;缩影
His creations were eagerly awaited and sought out by the titled and wealthy in the 1950s and 60s, including Princess Grace of Monaco, American First Lady Jackie Kennedy and Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor.
在上世纪五六十年代,纪梵希的设计已经是许多身世显赫的人物翘首以盼、争相追捧的对象,其中就包括摩纳哥格蕾丝王妃、美国第一夫人杰奎琳·肯尼迪、温莎公爵夫人华里丝·辛普森等。
纪梵希也为众多女明星设计过服装,但最为后世津津乐道的,是他与奥黛丽·赫本之间高山流水般的情谊。
纪梵希与赫本
1953年,纪梵希和赫本初次见面。
当时赫本还是个名不见经传的女演员,她的《罗马假日》(Roman Holiday)刚刚拍完还未上映。
《罗马假日》
因为仰慕纪梵希的设计,赫本特地登门拜访,到纪梵希的工作室请求他为自己主演的第二部电影《龙凤配》(Sabrina)设计服装。
而纪梵希一开始还以为来找他的是另一位更有名的凯瑟琳·赫本(Katharine Hepburn)。
他对赫本的第一印象是这样的:
“...this very thin person with beautiful eyes, short hair, thick eyebrows, very tiny trousers, ballerina shoes, and a little T-shirt. On her head was a straw gondolier’s hat with a red ribbon around it that said VENEZIA. I thought, This is too much!”
这是一个有着漂亮的大眼睛、短发浓眉的瘦削女孩,她穿着窄小的长裤、芭蕾舞鞋和一件小T恤,头上戴着一个贡多拉船夫帽,帽子上围一圈红色丝带,上面写着“威尼斯”。我心想,这也太过了!
纪梵希委婉表明自己正忙着准备下一个系列的时装,没有时间为她设计服装,但赫本不依不饶地请求他。于是他同意赫本从上一季的设计中挑选服装。
第一次穿上纪梵希的赫本像换了一个人:
“The change from the little girl who arrived that morning was unbelievable,” Givenchy says. “The suit just adapted to her. Something magic happened. Suddenly she felt good—you could feel her excitement, her joy.”
纪梵希回忆道:“那天早上到来的小女孩换上服装后变化惊人。那件衣服仿佛是为她量身定做的,有魔力一般,突然间她的心情变得特别好,你能感受到她的兴奋、快乐。”
《龙凤配》的无肩带晚礼服,1954
《甜姐儿》(Funny Face)中惊艳世人的一袭红裙,1957
《甜姐儿》清新嫩黄的连衣裙,1957
《黄昏之恋》(Love in the Afternoon)的一字领连衣裙,1957
《蒂凡尼的早餐》经典小黑裙,1961
纪梵希欣赏赫本的极简审美:
“I always respected Audrey’s taste. She was not like other movie stars in that she liked simplicity.”
我一直很欣赏奥黛丽的品味。她和其他明星不同,她喜欢简单的美。
穿着纪梵希设计的礼服的赫本,1955
赫本则感激纪梵希的服赋予了她个性:
“His are the only clothes in which I am myself. He is far more than a couturier, he is a creator of personality.”
他设计的服装是唯一让我感觉能够找到自我的衣服。他远不是女装设计师那么简单,他是个性的塑造者。
《甜姐儿》,1957
1954年奥斯卡颁奖礼上穿着纪梵希礼服的赫本
赫本的感情生活并不顺利,在追求爱情的道路上,一直跌跌撞撞。
纪梵希看着她走进婚姻的殿堂,陪她走过两段失败的婚姻,伴她走出情感的低谷,也看着她找到最终牵手一生的罗伯特·沃特斯(Robert Wolders)。
纪梵希曾说,二人之间也是“一种婚姻”。
“It was a kind of marriage,” Givenchy said.
“这也算是某种婚姻呢。”
“Little by little, our friendship grew and with it a confidence in each other,” he said.
“我们彼此间的友谊和信心一点点建立起来。”
在纪梵希的眼中,赫本是如此与众不同。
"I’ve dressed a lot of actresses but Audrey was special. She had a great simplicity. It was easy to work with her because she was happy."
“我为很多女演员设计过服装,但是赫本是特别的。她是那么单纯,和她一起合作很轻松,因为她很快乐。”
"Her smile was everything."
“她的笑,就是一切。”
他们之间,没有争吵,没有分歧,是心灵相通的知己。
"We really understood each other — we never had a disagreement," says Givenchy.
纪梵希说,“我们真的很懂彼此,从来没有过分歧。”
纪梵希的第一支香水是为赫本调制的,她独享3年后,这款香水才面世。
赫本为这支香水免费拍了广告片,这也是她一生挚爱的香水。
She was faithful to L’Interdit, a botanical fragrance Givenchy created especially for her.
赫本是禁忌香水的拥趸,这款香水是纪梵希专门为她调制的。
大概是天妒红颜,1992年,赫本被诊断为阑尾癌(cancer of the appendix),医生说,她只剩三个月了。
“The doctors gave her three months to live. She acknowledged being afraid of the pain but not being afraid of dying,” said her longtime partner Robert Wolders.
赫本的终身伴侣罗伯特说,“医生说她只能活三个月了。她说自己不怕死,但是怕疼。”
她说,想回瑞士度过最后一个圣诞节,但身体已经经不起折腾。
是纪梵希和另一位朋友用私人飞机把她接回了瑞士,完成了她的心愿。
“We went by private jet made possible by Hubert de Givenchy and her friend Bunny Mellon, and the pilots descended carefully to reduce the pressure slowly,” said Robert.
“我们最终乘私人飞机回去了,是纪梵希和赫本的另一位朋友邦妮让此次旅程得以成行。飞行员小心下降,慢慢减小压力。”
纪梵希和赫本一起散步
回到瑞士后,纪梵希在赫本的房间放满她最喜欢的白色百合花,让她保持好心情。
When she was ill, he filled her house with white lilies, her favourite flower.
在她生病期间,他在房间里放满了她最爱的白色百合花。
在那个圣诞节,赫本托朋友买了三件外套,一件送给伴侣罗伯特,一件送给儿子西恩,另一件送给了纪梵希。
She said, "Please think of me when you wear them."
她说,“当你们穿着这件衣服的时候,要想起我。”
1993年1月,赫本走了。
纪梵希是她的抬棺人之一(one of the pallbearers),陪着她走完了最后的旅程。
赫本去世后,纪梵希说,仿佛她从未离开过。
"It’s not only a fashion story — it’s more a story of friendship. It was a creative and important friendship, because to dress someone you love, who has such charm, and is always smiling, is very rare. For me, Audrey is still here — she’s with me now."
“这不光是个关于时尚的故事,它更是关于友谊的故事。是有创造性的、很重要的友谊,因为能装扮你爱的人是很难能可贵的,而她又是那样充满魅力,总是在笑着。于我而言,奥黛丽一直在这里,她就陪在我身边呢。”
2015年,隐退多年的纪梵希带着一本书走到了公众面前。
这本书的名字叫做《以爱致奥黛丽》(To Audrey with Love),以此纪念二人一起度过的美好时光。
他说:
I wanted to make a little “Sketch Book” to remember all the wonderful years we worked together.
我想做一个小画本,纪念我们一起度过的那些美好年华。
纪梵希的画本To Audrey with Love
来看Vogue记者对纪梵希的一段采访,他的话不多,却透着对赫本的怀念和爱。
Q:Did you make all of the sketches for the book, or do some come from your archives?
这些设计图是你为本书专门画的,还是有一部分是你以前的手稿呢?
A:No, each drawing is recent and was made for the book.
没有,每一幅都是最近画的,专门为这本书画的。
Q:Which sketch do you think best illustrates Audrey Hepburn’s personality?
你觉得哪一幅最好地展现了奥黛丽·赫本的性格?
A:All of the 30-or-so sketches in the book are dresses designed for Audrey; dresses for her films, and dresses for her.
这30多幅都是她裙子的设计图,有电影里的服装,还有她平时穿的。
Q:Which sketch do you think best illustrates Audrey Hepburn’s personality?
你觉得哪一幅最好地展现了奥黛丽·赫本的性格?
A:All of the 30-or-so sketches in the book are dresses designed for Audrey; dresses for her films, and dresses for her.
这30多幅都是她裙子的设计图,有电影里的服装,还有她平时穿的。
Q:What is your favorite outfit of all your designs?
这么多设计里,你最喜欢哪一套?
A:I don’t have a favorite, but maybe Audrey did…
我没有最喜欢的,不过可能奥黛丽有吧……
Q:Would you say Audrey Hepburn is your eternal muse?
奥黛丽·赫本是你永远的缪斯么?
A:Above all, Audrey was my friend. For me she represented elegance, elegance of heart, grace and beauty.
总的来说,她是我的朋友。于我而言,她代表着优雅,优雅的心、慈悲和美。
Q:What memories do you have of her?
关于她,你有怎样的记忆?
A:Thousands and thousands of precious memories. I feel her presence every day.
数不尽的美好记忆,每一天,我都能感受到她的存在。
Q:Who do you think could be the next Audrey Hepburn?
你觉得谁能成为下一个奥黛丽·赫本?
A:No one, you can’t compare her to anyone else. She will always be iconic.
没有,你不能把任何人和她相提并论。她将永远是标志性的存在。
如今,
纪梵希和赫本,
这两位老友,
终于又见面了。
编辑:左卓 唐晓敏